In July we joined Big Art (Arthur's Father), and Marji (Arthur's wicked stepmother) for a delightful trip to Switzerland with all of their children, spouses, and grandchildren. We based ourselves in Meiringen, a delightful village south of Luzern. Over the next days and weeks I will share my journal, photographs, and other goodies from our trip.

Day 4 - 16 Juli - Monday in München

We sleep late, although I could have arisen at 6:00. Somehow it is now 9:00, and Arthur showers and goes down to the breakfast room. I shower and follow him later. The bad English boys aren't there.

After breakfast we trek our way to the Frauenkirche, stopping first at an ATM. I like the Dom, cleaned up, as it were, by the war. There is a mixture of old and stunning new windows. Certain medieval wood carvings have been lovingly placed along the outer and inner walls of the choir. This room could take a lot more time.

There is also a crypt chapel with several Wittelsbach tombs. They seem to be scattered all over town. I buy a little book on the Dom and then we leave.

We are sort of keeping our eyes peeled for an ecclesiastical goods store. Arthur wants me to have a new alb. At the Ordinariums Amt I ask the receptionist where one might be and she gives two locations. We will conduct our search later.

The Residenz proves somewhat disappointing. The crown jewels were made in Paris, and the medieval collection is really quite small. Many of the rooms were destroyed in the Second World War, but have been reconstructed in a "simpler form." Therefore King Ludwig's tract is disappointing. The Antiquarium is spectacular, however. As a museum that hopes to attract a tourist there are very few amenities. There is no restaurant, no place to even get a drink of water. This is important because it has become a very hot day.

Even though there are a totally different set of rooms to see in the afternoon, we decline in favor of food and drink. We go back to Fünf Höfe and have lunch at Giorgio Armani a very modern and slick space (Thun carpaccio, with raspberries and watercress, Arthur has a salade niçoise.

From lunch we take the U Bahn to Implerstraße, looking for Josef Screibmaier, an ecclesiastical arts dealer. It's hard to find, and we walkall over this changing neighborhood to find it. There are several establishments serving the food industry and restaurants. It's interesting to see parts of Munich that are off the beaten track and normal. When we do find the store, there is nothing there of any quality, and we leave disappointed. We stop by an apoteke to look for talcum powder, but there's none of that either; and since it's so hot we stop at a grubby little bierstube for some water, while surrounded with photos of Charlie Chaplin, and Marilyn Monroe.

We take the train back to Odeonsplatz, and look into the Nymphenburg Porcelain shop. Beautiful things await there ­ all of them outrageously expensive.

We stop in again at Theatinerkirche to look at the Wittelsbach crypt. After the Kapuzinerkirche in Vienna, or even the Berliner Dom, this is a bit disappointing. It is oddly human, however, to see these repositories for the family members. We, all of us, have this in common. We spend some time there, just looking.

It's time for ice cream. I have a couple of scoops of sour cherry, and it's wonderful. They aren't sour cherries, however, just Bings treated as such. We just sit for a while, and observe the people and movement about us, and drink lots of water.

We leave and continue our walk, passing by a very unusual parking garage, and then to by Salvatorkirche, a medieval building now given over to the Uniates. It seems odd to see all of the gothic décor along with icons, and the usual orthodox liturgical furnishings. Then we're off to St. Michael's to find the tomb of Ludwig II. He is closed, however.

We part. Arthur wants to do some shopping, and I take a couple of photographs and go back to the hotel to do some reading. I have left Msgr. Gamber behind, and am just beginning Günter Grass's latest memoir Unpeeling the Onion. It is odd to be reading it in Germany, but it does add an engaging dimension to the read. When Arthur returns we take a long nap.

At 9:00 we intend to go to dinner but our hotel room door is damaged , so we have to wait for the staff to fix it. Finally we leave for Tanenbaum for dinner (Tuna with peppers in paprika, and roasted potatoes. Arthur ­ Wienerschnitzle). After dinner we take a walk, and end up at Bodo's, but it is closed, so we walk through the Sendlinger Tor and down the street for a bit, looking in store windows. Then home, journal, Grass, and sleep.

MTH 8/18/07
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